About the Megalosaur skin; When I make skin for an entire puppet, like a dinosaur, I roughly mesure the proportions of the built-up puppet body. This means that I do an approximate mesure of the lenght of the body, the strech of area from the top of the back to the bottom of the belly, underside of tail, and underside of neck. Together these mesurements make a sort of pattern, that I simply draw an outline of in a piece of clay rolled out flat. This outline should look like a skinned dino. Several shapes are then sculpted in this clay surface; larger folds, wrinkles, scales -I´ve even made som veins on occation. When you have this pattern to go from it´s really easy to see where you should put detailing. Of course, additional detailing occur spontainiously when you strech and shape the skin while attaching it to the foam muscles, but I like to add some stuff already when the skin is produced. It makes for great control.
Then you make a plaster cast, sponge some latex for slush molding (false noses, etc) into the cast, let it dry, powder it, remove it and stick it on. This larger skin-mold is also usable for producing skin for the legs, etc. I usually work with rather large pieces of latex skin. It´s faster to apply and easier to hide the seams. All seams are camouflaged with some drops of liquid latex. As I said, I prefer to sponge the latex into the molds. This creates thinner, more uneaven edges that are easier to blend over each other.
Sometimes I´ve also made texture stamps for producing scaly skin. This means I´ve sculpted only a tiny part of skin, made a thin mold of it with mold-making latex and simply used this flat latex mold as a texture stamp, pressing it onto larger clay sculpts to create skin textures easier and faster. Sometimes I´ve made texture stamps from toys, real reptile skin and other surfaces.